Effective utilization of tannery hair waste to develop a high-performing re-tanning agent for cleaner leather manufacturing

Accumulation of hair waste is a major burden to the leather industry, causing a negative impact on the industry's sustainable development. The industry is already bogged down by the usage of synthetic re-tanning agents that are not only extremely challenging for biodegradation but also release free-form of formaldehyde in the final leather stage. This research work focuses on developing a formaldehyde-free bio-based re-tanning agent from hair waste. In order to do so, hair waste is subjected to alkali hydrolysis and subsequently graft-copolymerized with methacrylic acid (MAA). These treatments were optimal using 20 % (w/w) sodium hydroxide and thermal activity at 90 °C. This resulted in effective hydrolysis of red sheep hair, which was the ideal candidate in this study. The hydrolysate was subjected to monomer in situ polymerization (using MAA) with potassium per sulfate/sodium meta-bisulphite redox system, leading to the development of keratin hydrolysate-g-methacrylic acid (KH-g-MA) copolymer (this was noted both at a laboratory level and pilot scale). The obtained KH-g-MA copolymer exhibited ideal characteristics such as increased protein content (78.3 ± 1.2), appropriate particle size (1516 nm), suitable pH (5) and required viscosity of 512 cP. The developed KH-g-MA copolymer was then applied as a re-tanning agent in the leather manufacturing process. Significant improvement in leather's mechanical strength characteristics was observed. In addition, the organoleptic properties of leather such as fullness, softness and grain tightness showed much improvement. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showed an enhanced surface smoothness and filling of the voids in experimental leather in comparison to the control leather. This recycle and reuse strategy of hair waste not only helps resolve issues with handling of hair solid waste but also results in producing an eco-friendly re-tanning agent in leather manufacturing, thereby paving the way for cyclic economic utilization and cleaner environment.