The Establishment and Application of a Method for the Systematic Evaluation, Screening, and Efficacy Verification of Various Cosmetic Ingredients Based on the Inhibition and Degradation of Advanced Glycation End Products

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) formed via glycation reactions negatively impact skin health by diminishing barrier function and elasticity and causing dullness. This study systematically evaluated the inhibitory and degradative capabilities of 24 cosmetic ingredients against AGEs using BSA-glucose and ELISA-based screening systems. We identified 21 ingredients that inhibit fluorescent AGEs, 22 that degrade AGEs-collagen crosslinks, and 19 with both properties. Further investigation of six key ingredients, including freeze-dried Rosa rugosa powder (Rosa rugosa cv. Plena) and freeze-dried Camellia sinensis flower powder (Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze), revealed their notable ability to degrade AGEs monomers and dimers. Freeze-dried Rosa rugosa powder achieved a 19% inhibition rate in an MGO-induced HDFs glycation model. Our findings provide valuable insights for selecting anti-glycation agents and developing effective anti-glycation products.