Photo-aging evaluation - In vitro biological endpoints combined with collagen density assessment with multi-photon microscopy

Ultraviolet exposure has profound effect on the dermal connective tissue of human skin.We aimed to develop and validate an evaluation method/methodology using a full-thickness reconstructed skin model, to assess the anti-photoaging efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and sunscreen formulas by blending multi relevant biological endpoints including the newly developed dermal collagen quantification method with Multi-photon microscopy.The response of ex vivo human skin to UVA exposure was first characterized with multiphoton microscopy. Reconstructed full-thickness skin models was then used to reproduce the data and to create a proof-of-concept study by treating the models with sunscreen prototypes A or B, which differ on their UVA absorption properties, and systemic Vitamin C (Vit C). After exposure to UVA, the collagen density was quantified via multiphoton microscopy with automatic imaging processing. Histology, fibroblasts number, metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) secretion were also assessed.UVA exposure induced pronounced reduction in collagen density and increased MMP1 secretion within both ex vivo human skin and reconstructed skin. Histological damage and fibroblast disappearance was observed with reconstructed skin. Within the proof-of-concept study prototype B, possessing higher UVA filtration, gave better protection than prototype A on the UV associated biological markers, and association with Vit C boosted sunscreen formula efficacy.The photoaging evaluation method, consists of multi biological markers as well as dermal collagen quantification, is a relevant mean to assess the pre-clinical efficacy of anti-photoaging ingredients and sunscreen products. This approach is also beneficial for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens and photoprotective ingredients.