Lipopeptides development in cosmetics and pharmaceutical applications: A comprehensive review

Lipopeptides are surface active, natural products of bacteria, fungi and green-blue algae origin, having diverse structures and functionalities. In analogy, a number of chemical synthesis techniques generated new designer lipopeptides with desirable features and functions. Lipopetides are self-assembly guided, supramolecular compounds which have the capacity of high-density presentation of the functional epitopes at the surface of the nanostructures. This feature contributes to their successful application in several industry sectors, including food, feed, personal care, and pharmaceutics. In this comprehensive review, the novel class of ribosomally synthesized lipopeptides is introduced alongside the more commonly occuring non-ribosomal lipopeptides. We highlight key representatives of the most researched as well as recently described lipopeptide families, with emphasis on structural features, self-assembly and associated functions. The common biological, chemical and hybrid production routes of lipopeptides, including prominent analogues and derivatives are also discussed. Furthermore, genetic engineering strategies aimed at increasing lipopeptide yields, diversity and biological activity are summarized and exemplified. With respect to application, this work mainly details the potential of lipopeptides in personal care and cosmetics industry as cleansing agents, moisturizer, anti-aging/anti-wrinkling, skin whitening and preservative agents as well as the pharmaceutical industry as anitimicrobial agents, vaccines, immunotherapy, and cancer drugs. Given that this review addresses human applications, we conclude on the topic of safety of lipopeptide formulations and their sustainable production.