Determination of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

Most preservatives are irritating and can easily induce skin sensitivities. Therefore, both domestic and international regulations impose clear restrictions on the use of preservatives in cosmetics. Herein, gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was employed to simultaneously analyze the levels of 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. Further, a precise identification approach based on a two-column retention index and mass spectrometry matching degree was developed. Cosmetic samples were extracted via acetonitrile vortex ultrasound extraction and then dehydrated with anhydrous MgSO4. The preservative allergens were separated on two columns, namely, DB-5MS and DB-WAX. Targets were identified using electron impact ionization (EI) source and the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode and characterized using a retention index calibrated by a series of n-alkane standards. Following two tests, the LODs for the 15 preservative allergens on the DB-5MS column were in the range of 0.02-0.2 mg/kg, while those for 12 preservative allergens on the DB-WAX column were in the range of 0.01-20 mg/kg. The preservative allergens on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns demonstrated strong correlations, with all correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries for the 15 preservative allergens were in the range of 70.1%-129.8% at low, medium, and high levels, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were all below 15% (n=6) when using water, lotion, facial mask, and cream as the representative matrix. Next, 80 batches of genuine samples were tested using the established method. Isopropyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, a prohibited preservative, was detected in two sample batches using the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns. Additionally, 11 and 10 restricted preservative allergens were identified on the DB-5MS and DB-WAX columns, respectively. The test results indicate that the double-column system approach offers excellent accuracy, effectively preventing false-positive and false-negative results, and can detect the 15 preservative allergens in cosmetics. The use of the retention index for the qualitative detection of these preservative allergens offers valuable options for non-targeted screening and meeting regulatory criteria.