In vitro assessment of skin permeation properties of enzymatically derived oil‐based fatty acid esters of vitamin C

Abstract Current topical formulations containing vitamin C face limitations in therapeutic effectiveness due to the skin's selective properties that impede drug deposition. Consequently, the widespread use of toxic and irritating chemical permeation enhancers is common. Hereby, we investigated enzymatically derived fatty acid ascorbyl esters (FAAEs) obtained using natural oils for their skin permeation properties using the Strat‐M® skin model in a Franz cell diffusion study. By evaluating various cosmetic formulations without added enhancers, we found that emulgel is most suitable for enhancing the cutaneous and transdermal delivery of FAAEs. Furthermore, medium‐chain coconut oil‐derived FAAEs exhibited faster diffusion rates compared to sunflower oil‐based FAAEs with long‐side acyl residues, including the commonly applied ascorbyl palmitate. Experimental data were successfully fitted using the Peppas and Sahlin model, which accounted for a lag phase and the combined effect of Fickian diffusion and polymer relaxation. In the case of long‐chain esters, the lag phase was prolonged, and the calculated effective diffusion coefficients ( D eff ) were lower compared to medium‐chain FAAEs. Accordingly, the highest D eff value was observed for ascorbyl caprylate, being even 60 times higher than for ascorbyl palmitate. These results suggest the emerging potential of emulgel with incorporated coconut oil‐derived FAAEs for efficiently delivering vitamin C into the skin.