Development on potential skin anti-aging agents of Cosmos caudatus Kunth via inhibition of collagenase, MMP-1 and MMP-3 activities

Skin aging is associated with degradation of collagen by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which leads to loss of skin elasticity and formation of wrinkles. Cosmos caudatus Kunth (CC) has been traditionally claimed as an anti-aging agent in Malaysia. Despite its well-known antioxidant activity, the anti-aging properties of CC was not validated. This study aimed to investigate the anti-aging potential of CC extracts and fractions, particularly their inhibition of collagenase, MMP-1 and MMP-3 activities in human dermal fibroblasts CCD-966SK, followed by isolation, identification and analysis of their bioactive constituents. DPPH assay was firstly used to evaluate the antioxidant activity throughout the bioactivity-guided fractionation. Cell viability was determined using MTS assay. Collagenase activity was examined, while MMP-1 and MMP-3 expression were measured using qRT-PCR and western blotting. Then, chemical identification of pure compounds isolated from CC fractions was done by using ESIMS, 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies. HPLC analyses were carried out for bioactive fractions to quantify the major components. Throughout the antioxidant activity-guided fractionation, fractions CC-E2 and CC-E3 with antioxidant activity and no toxicity towards CCD-966SK cells were obtained from CC 75% ethanol partitioned layer (CC-E). Both fractions inhibited collagenase activity, MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA and protein expression, as well as NF-κB activation induced by TNF-α in CCD-966SK cells. 14 compounds, which mainly consists of flavonoids and their glycosides, were isolated. Quercitrin (14.79% w/w) and quercetin (11.20% w/w) were major compounds in CC-E2 and CC-E3, respectively, as quantified by HPLC. Interestingly, both fractions also inhibited the MMP-3 protein expression synergistically, compared with treatment alone. The quantified CC fractions rich in flavonoid glycosides exhibited skin anti-aging effects via the inhibition of collagenase, MMP-1 and MMP-3 activities, probably through NF-κB pathway. This is the first study reported on MMP-1 and MMP-3 inhibitory activity of CC with its chemical profile, which revealed its potential to be developed as anti-aging products in the future.