Novel Facial Cream Containing Carnosine Inhibits Formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products in Human Skin

BACKGROUND: Accumulation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) in skin has been associated with skin aging. Inhibition of glycation of proteins of extracellular matrix may help skin texture and appearance. The objective of the study was to demonstrate the antiglycation activity of topically applied carnosine and novel facial cream (FC) containing carnosine in human skin explants ex vivo. METHODS: Glycation was induced in human skin explants by methylglyoxal (MG) in culture media. FC containing carnosine (FC-CARN) or carnosine in aqueous solution (AQ-CARN) was applied topically on skin explants. Levels of AGEs carboxymethyl-lysine (CML) and pentosidine were determined in the epidermis and dermis of skin sections and were used to calculate antiglycation activity. RESULTS: Exposure to MG led to increases in CML and pentosidine in skin explants. Antiglycation effect for AQ-CARN was CML: -64 and -41%, pentosidine: -48 and 42% in epidermis and reticular dermis respectively. Antiglycation effect for FC-CARN was CML: -150 and -122%, pentosidine: -108 and -136%, in epidermis and reticular dermis respectively. CONCLUSION: Topically applied carnosine protects against the glycation induced by MG. Novel FC-CARN significantly reduced levels of AGEs in both epidermis and reticular dermis in human skin explants.