손상모발에 열 펌 시술 시 pH 조절이 모발에 미치는 영향

To explore the measures that could mitigate hair damage based on comparative analysis of the extent of damage by varying intermediate processing methods in softening process during heat permanent procedure using the pH balance and pH shampoos which are widely used currently at beauty and cosmetology industrial sites, we performed the procedures as below: The dyed hairs and bleached hairs were classified into D and B, respectively. We used 2 different washing methods such as pH shampoo wash(PS), and pH shampoo wash(PPS) after pH balance coating, for digital perm procedure. The results were as follows: based on the tensile strength measurement of the hairs, virgin hair was found to have a tensile strength of 119.72 ± 11.37 gf/ ㎟. Tensile strength of hairs treated by DPPS and BPPS was 100.68 ± 15.32 gf/㎟ and 97.29 ± 12.56 gf/㎟, respectively, suggesting that the hairs in experiment group treated by pH shmpoo wash after pH balance coating exhibited a tensile strength closest to that of Virgin hair. The results of observation of hair cuticles showed that cuticle layers were reduced due to overlapping of cuticles because the cuticles became thinner after physical and chemical treatment of heat perm in dyed hairs scaling, exfoliation, and peeling of cuticles were observed. Observed with topographic image, cuticle clearance became widened and grooved, but cuticles had clear scale contours. The 3D image showed that there was some damage. Based on observation with topographic image, cuticle clearance was found to have been widened, and furthermore, grooved cuticles were observed. The results of this study suggested that hair damage was mitigated when pH balance and pH shampoo were used together in case that the hairs underwent intermediate treatment during the softening process as part of heat perm link procedure after the dyeing and bleaching procedures.