Topical Transdermal Administration of Supramolecular Self‐Assembled Carnosine for Anti‐Melanin and Anti‐Aging

The structure of natural proteins has inspired the hypothesis that L-carnosine (LC), acetyl carnosine (AC), and decarboxy carnosine (DC) self-assemble into highly bioactive carnosine with supramolecular structures. These structures are proposed to combat skin pigmentation and aging through the coordination of weak interactions between molecules. Simulations are conducted to ascertain the precise free energies of the potential supramolecular structures and to identify the equilibrium structure. The mechanism of transdermal action of supramolecular carnosine is investigated through experiments and molecular dynamics simulations. The results demonstrate that supramolecular carnosine exhibits a more pronounced reactivity with the skin than LC, primarily due to the interaction of AC and DC with the lipid matrix, which reduces interfacial resistance. The anti-photoaging and anti-glycation cell models demonstrate that supramolecular carnosine upregulates the expression of the Nrf2 protein, activates the antioxidant defense system of melanocytes, inhibits the expression of the receptor for advanced glycosylation end products (AGEs), and reduces the level of AGEs in vivo. Moreover, supramolecular carnosine has demonstrated satisfactory whitening efficacy in cells and clinical efficacy tests, thereby underscoring its considerable potential for biomedical and aesthetic applications.