Photoprotective Effect of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart Essential Oil Against UVB‐induced Photoaging in Mice

ABSTRACT Photoaging refers to the extrinsic aging resulting from ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, which impacts skin appearance and is accompanied by the risk of skin carcinoma. Developing natural products as photoprotective agents is of great interest in cosmetic industry nowadays. The present study aimed at investigating the possible use of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart essential oil (AEO) for the prevention of photoaging induced by UVB. AEO was characterized by chamazulene, which accounted for 38.92% among total 51 identified compounds. In in vitro assays, AEO was found to be a moderate antioxidant and good UVB filter with photostability. A UVB‐induced photoaging mice model was established with three AEO formulations (0.1%, 0.5% and 1.5%, w/w) topically applied prior to UVB irradiation. The activities of catalase, particularly superoxide dismutase of skin increased, while malondialdehyde content decreased in AEO groups as compared with model controls. The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP‐1 and MMP‐3) and depletion of hydroxyproline in skin were inhibited by AEO in a dose‐dependent manner. Histological evaluation indicated that AEO decreased epidermal thickness, inflammatory cell infiltration, collagen degradation and elastin aberrance. These findings indicated that AEO could be a promising sunscreen agent in protecting the skin against photoaging.