Cellulosic Fibres

This chapter first provides an introduction to the manufacture and physical properties of cotton, viscose (CV), lyocell (CLY), cellulose acetate (CA) and cellulose triacetate (CTA) fibres. It then focuses on fundamental aspects of the chemistry, fine structure and properties of the polymer, cellulose, as this is the base material of both natural and regenerated cellulosic fibres. The chapter also discusses aspects relating to the two ester derivatives of cellulose, CA and CTA fibres, and summarizes the basic principles involved in water/cellulose interactions. Cellulosic fibres display hydrophilicity owing to the ability of water molecules to undergo interactions with the constituent hydroxyl and carboxyl groups in the substrate. Five classes of dye can be used to dye cotton and other cellulosic fibres, namely direct dyes, sulphur dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes and azoic colorants. The use of added electrolyte is a fundamental pre-requisite in the dyeing of cellulosic fibres with anionic dyes.