A natural dye extract from lotus seedpod for dyeability and functional property of tussah silk fabric

Purpose This paper aims to investigate the dyeability of tussah silk fabric with lotus seedpod extract as the source of nontoxic and eco-friendly dyestuffs and functional agent. Design/methodology/approach Mordant free dyeing method was carried out using citric acid (CA) as the cross-linking agent to link the fibre and dye molecules. First, the natural pigment of oligomeric procyanidins was extracted from the lotus seedpod and then used to dye the tussah silk fabric. After the dyeing process, the dyed samples were treated with CA solution under different concentrations to improve the colour fastness. Findings The tussah silk fabric was successfully coloured in reddish brown through the dyeing process and charactered by using Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy spectrometer. Moreover, lotus seedpod extract could impart excellent UV protection ability to the dyed samples, and UPF values reached up to 2000. CA dosage influenced the colour characteristics, UV protection and anti-wrinkling performance. The optimum dosage of CA was 7% (Wt.%). In addition, dyed silk fabric showed good antibacterial activity and the calculated bacteriostatic rate against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 83.27 and 60.2%, respectively. Practical implications This bio-dyeing strategy provided a simple and effective method for sustainable tussah silk fabric dyeing process. Originality/value This paper provides a novel dyeing strategy for mordant free dyeing and functionalization of tussah silk fabric, with lotus seedpod extract as natural pigment and CA as cross-linking agent to link the fibre and dye molecules.