In Vitro Evaluation of Skin-Related Physicochemical Properties and Biological Activities of Astaxanthin Isomers

Dietary astaxanthin exists predominantly as the all-E-isomer; however, certain amounts of the Z-isomers are universally present in the skin, whose roles remain largely unknown. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of the astaxanthin E/Z-isomer ratio on skin-related physicochemical properties and biological activities using human dermal fibroblasts and B16 mouse melanoma cells. We revealed that astaxanthin enriched in Z-isomers (total Z-isomer ratio = 86.6%) exhibited greater UV-light-shielding ability and skin antiaging and skin-whitening activities, such as anti-elastase and anti-melanin formation activities, than the all-E-isomer-rich astaxanthin (total Z-isomer ratio = 3.3%). On the other hand, the all-E-isomer was superior to the Z-isomers in singlet oxygen scavenging/quenching activity, and the Z-isomers inhibited type I collagen release into the culture medium in a dose-dependent manner. Our findings help clarify the roles of astaxanthin Z-isomers in the skin and would help in the development of novel skin health-promoting food ingredients.