Fibrous Clays in Dermopharmaceutical and Cosmetic Applications: Traditional and Emerging Perspectives

Functionalization of natural clay minerals for high value-added pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications receives significant research attention worldwide attributable to a rising demand and ongoing search for green, efficient, economically sustainable and ecofriendly geomaterials. Fibrous clays, i.e. palygorskite and sepiolite, are naturally-occurring hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate clay minerals with 2:1 layer-chain microstructure and one-dimensional nanofibrous morphology. Due to their unique structural, textural and compatibility features, over the past decade, fibrous clays and their organic modified derivatives are increasingly used in the dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic fields as excipients, active agents or nanocarriers to develop novel skin delivery systems or to modify drug release profile for enhanced health effects. This comprehensive review presents the up-to-date information on fibrous clays used in topically-applied products for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes with the focus on their performance-related structural characteristics and the underlying mechanisms. The recent advancement of fibrous clay-based skin delivery systems was summarized in wide range of applications including pelotherapy, wound healing, antimicrobial action, coloration and UV protection. An overview of the commonly used topically-applied dosage forms (powders, hydrogels, films, peloids and Pickering emulsion) as well as the toxicological aspects was also included, which might provide guidance to the design and development of fibrous clay-based skin delivery systems.