Identification and validation of amino acid‐based mild exfoliating agents through a de novo screening method

Summary Background Due to internal or external factors, the desquamation (turnover) rate of the stratum corneum slows down, resulting in skin problems. Therefore, adjusting the exfoliation rate through cosmetics is an important issue. Objective This report aimed to develop exfoliating agents with lesser adverse effects and higher efficiency through an ex vivo screening method and in vivo turnover rate analysis of human skin. Methods Various molecules were evaluated by the ex vivo porcine skin exfoliation method and screened for their potential as effective agents. To confirm the effect and mechanism of each agent found, the exfoliation efficiency was evaluated. Each agent was also applied to the actual human skin to determine its efficacy and side effects. Results Despite the pH 6, carnitine and serine, which have similar or better efficiency compared to PHA, were selected. Based on the results, it was confirmed that calcium. And it is nonirritating to the human skin and increases the turnover rate (~130%). Conclusion Amino acid‐based exfoliating agents, such as carnitine and serine, were identified and verified to enhance the rate of exfoliation of the stratum corneum. It is expected that the improvement of dullness, mild acne, fine wrinkles, and pores through skin exfoliation in the field of cosmetics can be achieved safely through these agents.