Confocal Raman spectroscopy at different laser wavelengths in analyzing stratum corneum and skin penetration properties of mixed PEGylated emulsifier systems

Emulsifier mixtures are widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutics and thus, brought extensive studies for their performances on skin applications. PEG-20cetyl ether (C20) is recently proposed to induce skin irritation and is of interest to study its skin interactions when mixed with other emulsifiers. PEG-2oleyl ether (O2) and PEG-20stearyl ether (S20) are selected and in specific, 50 mM of C20, O2, S20 as well as Mix1 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM O2) and Mix2 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM S20) solutions were applied on skin samples. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) analyses of stratum corneum (SC) thickness and SC lipid content were performed after 4 h skin treatments. In parallel, skin penetration properties were also evaluated via CRS by applying procaine solutions with/without emulsifiers on skin samples for 24 h. In terms of the CRS measurements, two excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm are both utilized in this study and we secondly aimed to compare their results and suitability in SC and skin analyses. Based on the experimental observations, comparable results are obtained by using both excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm demonstrating their suitability in analyzing SC and skin samples. Thereinto, 785 nm laser wavelength shows the advantage of deeper skin penetration and allows the measurements of fluorescent skin samples; 532 nm laser wavelength enables simple measurement performance without substrate and coverslip interference. With regards to the results of emulsifier mixtures, the addition of S20 and O2 reduced the skin interactions and penetration enhancing ability of C20, giving us the hint to build milder systems with emulsifier mixtures. Besides, the CRS results of stronger skin interruption were also correlated with the higher critical micelle concentration (CMC) values of emulsifiers and their mixtures, which may provide evidence in explaining the interactions between emulsifiers and skin.