Morphological characteristics of normal and oily skin in different phototypes

OBJECTIVE: A better understanding of the different skin types is very important as a support for the development of more specific cosmetics. In this context, the objective of this study was to evaluate the morphological characteristics of normal and oily skin in different phototypes by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Seventy-seven females, aged 18-32 years, phototypes II-V, with oily or normal skin, participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of skin surface sebum and hydration, transepidermal water loss, pore count, skin microrelief, and morphology characteristics of the skin were performed. RESULTS: The phototype influenced pore count, sebaceous gland activity and skin topography, and skin oiliness showed higher sebaceous gland activity and pore count. Reflectance confocal microscopy image analysis showed deeper dermal papillae in phototype V, both in oily and normal skin, with a thinner epidermal and granulosum layer in oily skin. In addition, darker phototypes exhibited differences in furrow size and a higher prevalence of polycyclic dermal papillae. CONCLUSION: This study highlights the importance of phototype and skin oiliness for a better understanding of skin characteristics, showing the impact of different skin phototypes on pore count, topography, and morphological characteristics of the skin. Thus, understanding how these factors influence skin can help the development of more targeted and effective cosmetics according to skin type.