Effect of waist ease distribution on aesthetic fit

When a garment is given a certain amount of ease, the body shape characteristics and matching degree of air gap distribution determine the aesthetic fit of garment sculpt. The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between the aesthetic fit and air gap distribution of the bust and waist sections. Three factors, the ratio of the horizontal radius vector to the bust and waist sections ( Hrv B , Hrv W ) and the location and proportion of darts ( D L , D P ), have been considered in this analysis. Ten female participants with different Hrv (including Hrv B and Hrv W ) were recruited and asked to wear 10 sample blouses with different D L and D P . Samples worn by participants are observed at different angles, and evaluated with scores by 30 experts. The air gap thickness (THA) between the garment and skin are measured by a TC 2 scanner and Qualisys three-dimensional motion capture system. The results show that Hrv is the most important factor affecting the aesthetic fit, while D L and D P have significant influence on the formation of garment wrinkles. A round body shape has higher scores when wearing sample garments whose waist dart is close to the front and middle (samples L2, L3) and smaller back middle dart and front waist dart (samples P1, P2), while a flat body shape has higher scores in the opposite condition (sample L5, P5). In terms of air gap distribution, there is a significant positive correlation between Hrv B and THA in the front area (132–180°). Here, Hrv W was negatively correlated with THA in the back side area. The correlation coefficients are all above 0.6. The D L has a great influence on THA in the side area of the bust section and front side area of the waist section, while D P has a great influence on THA in the front and back areas of the bust section and the back side area of the waist section. In a comparative analysis, this paper proved that the smaller fluctuation of THA and the uniform ease distribution are more likely to present an aesthetic and fit dressing appearance. Although the relationship between THA and the three factors was not significant, the regularity of its distribution is accompanied by a significant change of dressing score.