Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic and dermatological preparations

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) were developed at the beginning of the 1990s as an alternative carrier system to emulsions, liposomes and polymeric nanoparticles. The paper reviews advantages—also potential limitations—of SLN for the use in topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Features discussed include stabilisation of incorporated compounds, controlled release, occlusivity, film formation on skin including in vivo effects on the skin. As a novel type of lipid nanoparticles with solid matrix, the nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are presented, the structural specialities described and improvements discussed, for example, increase in loading capacity, physical and chemical long-term stability, triggered release and potentially supersaturated topical formulations. For both SLN and NLC, the technologies to produce the final topical formulation are described, especially the production of highly concentrated lipid nanoparticle dispersions >30–80% lipid content. Production issues also include clinical batch production, large scale production and regulatory aspects (e. g. status of excipients or proof of physical stability).