Salted and dried fish (Nemipterus virgatus), acquired from Hong Kong, was treated with 0.43-110 mM nitrite during in vitro digestion using gastric enzymes and the volatile N-nitrosamine content and mutagenicity on Salmonella typhimurium TA100 assayed without concentration. N-Nitrosodimethylamine (NDMA; the only nitrosamine detected) formation was second order in nitrite concentration. When 10 g of fish was treated with 6.96 mM nitrite, 394 nM NDMA was formed. Thiocyanate was catalytic for NDMA formation at nitrite concentration greater than 0.87 mM and when the ratio of thiocyanate to nitrite was greater than 1. Approximately a 50% inhibition in NDMA formation by ascorbic acid was seen when the ratio of ascorbate to nitrite was approximately 2 or greater and the nitrite concentration was 1.74 mM. Mutagenicity increased with increasing nitrite concentration but the addition of thiocyanate did not increase mutagenicity over nitrite alone. Ascorbate increased mutagenicity even though NDMA formation was inhibited. Even at nitrite concentrations greater than 100-fold higher than expected in vivo, there was insufficient NDMA formed to account for the observed mutagenicity. These data do not exclude the possibility that the observed mutagenicity was due to non-volatile N-nitroso compounds, however, this possibility seems unlikely given the effects of ascorbate and thiocyanate which would be expected to inhibit and enhance non-volatile N-nitroso compound formation.