Retinol semisolid preparations in cosmetics: transcutaneous permeation mechanism and behaviour

Retinol is widely used to treat skin ageing because of its effect on cell differentiation, proliferation and apoptosis. However, its potential benefits appear to be limited by its skin permeability. Herein, we investigated the transcutaneous behavior of retinol in semisolid cosmetics, in both in vitro and in vivo experiments. In vitro experiments used the modified Franz diffusion cell combined with Raman spectroscopy. In in vivo experiments, the content of retinol in rat skin and plasma was detected with HPLC. Retinol in semisolid cosmetics was mainly concentrated in the stratum corneum in the skin of the three animal models tested, and in any case did not cross the skin barrier after a 24 h dermatologic topical treatment in Franz diffusion cells tests. Similar results were obtained in live mice and rats, where retinol did not cross the skin barrier and did not enter the blood circulation. Raman spectroscopy was used to test the penetration depth of retinol in skin, which reached 16 μm out of 34 μm in pig skin, whereas the skin of mouse and rat showed too strong bakground interference. To explore epidermal transport mechanism and intradermal residence, skin transcriptomics was performed in rats, which identified 126 genes upregulated related to retinol transport and metabolism, relevant to the search terms "retinoid metabolic process" and "transporter activity". The identity of these upregulated genes suggests that the mechanism of retinol action is linked to epidermis, skin, tissue and epithelium development.