Comparative skin penetration profiles of formulations including ultradeformable liposomes as potential nanocosmeceutical carriers

BACKGROUND: Ultradeformable liposomes are promising carriers for cosmeceutical actives as they can be loaded with molecules of different polarities, and they present unique penetration properties. AIMS: While those features have already been tested, we wanted to know whether their special penetration properties could be maintained after incorporation in diverse cosmetic vehicles, including commercial products already in the market. METHODS: Ultradeformable liposomes loaded with a lipophilic and a hydrophilic fluorescent probe were prepared by lipid film resuspension, followed by extrusion and incorporation to different vehicles and commercial products. Penetration was determined in human and pig skin by incubation, with the Saarbrücken penetration model, followed by the recovery of the probes or by fluorescence microscopy. RESULTS: The incorporation of ultradeformable liposomes to cosmetic vehicles did not alter their penetration in most of the cases for human skin explants. Pig skin penetration presented significant differences compared with human explants. CONCLUSIONS: Ultradeformable liposomes could be useful as versatile cosmeceutical carriers in final product formulations.