On Vintage Values

Secondhand fashion is a rapidly growing, lucrative market with both off- and online outlets. Studies of secondhand consumption have focused primarily on people's motivations for secondhand shopping, highlighting sustainability and/or thrift. We extend this work by looking at the motivations and practices of secondhand shoppers who are driven instead by style, playfulness and treasure-hunting. We present findings from ethnographic observation and interviews with 13 secondhand shoppers. Three secondhand shopping orientations emerged. Perfection Seeking involves seeking items that fit with an individual look or personal brand. These items are seen as unique, and demonstrate an alternative to mainstream fashion and consumption. Casual curiosity is less focused, more engaged in browsing, and driven by both secondhand objects and the secondhand experience itself. Digging involves the focused pursuit of hidden "gems" or treasures, following the belief that unusual items are waiting to be found. We offer ideas for designing secondhand shopping experiences to support the needs for storytelling, experiential pleasure, and negotiation around durable value.