Body shape morphology representation and prototype pattern optimisation by polar diameter on female students’ “waist-to-thigh” zone

Traditional prototype patterns are typically generated using proportional formulas based on size specifications. This will only receive identical prototype patterns under the same size specification, directly leading to significant fit issues due to morphology differences. A 3D point cloud of 353 female students was scanned, and the cross-section layers of the ‘waist-to-thigh’ zone were determined. A polar radial was extracted to represent the surface morphological difference. Subsequently, the pattern based on the surface flattening was optimised. Additionally, the fitness was evaluated by the subjective assessment. The results showed that the polar radial could represent the body morphological difference even under the same size specification. Based on the morphological difference, the 160/68A could be divided into three categories: 160/68A-Type-I, Uniform (46.79%), 160/68A-Type-II, Flat subelliptic (37.01%) and 160/68A-Type-III, Convex subcircular (16.2%). The corresponding optimised pattern could effectively improve the garment’s fitness by integrating the body morphology while maintaining original size specifications. Particularly in the waist and side seam region, the dressing pressure had been effectively solved because the pattern is more in line with the shape morphology characteristics. These findings will contribute to the fitness improvement of the same size specification.