Hydrolysed ginseng‐saponin quaternary: a novel conditioning agent for hair care products

Synopsis A new quaternary ammonium compound, hydrolysed ginseng‐saponin quaternary (HGSQ), from Korean ginseng saponin and 2,3‐epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, has been developed as a conditioning agent for hair care products. This structure has a hydrophobic group from the aglycone of ginseng saponin which is biologically active and considered as the most important component of Korean ginseng. Its properties of surface tension, conductivity, critical micelle concentration (CMC), eye irritation, sorption onto hair, tensile strength for 20% extension and moisture retention effect were studied. Its cationic character allows the molecule to be more substantive than ginseng saponin. HGSQ had good physical properties and was safe enough as a cosmetic raw material. Also half‐head tests of HGSQ‐containing shampoo were carried out to evaluate the conditioning effects in shampoos. HGSQ showed good conditioning properties in a shampoo.