The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D‐Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications

Abstract Objective To develop and evaluate the efficacy of WS Biotin, a novel water‐soluble form of D‐Biotin, for cosmetic use. Methods A new encapsulated form of D‐Biotin was developed with the purpose of improving the water solubility of biotin. This novel form of encapsulated biotin was characterized by its physicochemical properties: particle size, D‐Biotin content and solubility in water. Also, proliferation and gene expression in vitro tests in cell culture were performed to evaluate its effectiveness in promoting hair growth, an ELISA test was conducted for hair keratinization and skin lightening property was tested by analysing the intracellular melanin content. Results The developed WS Biotin microcapsules exhibit a particle size range of 2–30 μm with D‐Biotin content of ~50% (w/w). The water solubility of WS Biotin was found to be 20‐fold greater than free biotin. The obtained in vitro results indicated that WS Biotin enhances the expression of hair‐related keratins in hair follicle keratinocytes, as well as the expression of hair growth‐promoting genes in dermal papilla cells. Moreover, the melanin content in UVA‐exposed epidermal melanocytes was reduced upon exposure to WS Biotin. Conclusion In this work, a novel form of encapsulated biotin, WS Biotin, was developed in order to improve the water solubility of free biotin and was found to be effective for cosmetic use in both hair and skin applications.