Human Hair Graying Revisited: Principles, Misconceptions, and Key Research Frontiers

Hair graying holds psychosocial importance and serves as an excellent model for studying human pigmentation and aging in an accessible miniorgan. Current evidence suggests that graying results from an interindividually varying mixture of cumulative oxidative and DNA damage, excessive mTORC1 activity, melanocyte senescence, and inadequate production of pigmentation-promoting factors in the hair matrix. Various regulators modulate this process, including genetic factors (DNA repair defects and IRF4 sequence variation, peripheral clock genes, P-cadherin signaling, neuromediators, HGF, KIT ligand secretion, and autophagic flux. This leads to reduced MITF- and tyrosinase-controlled melanogenesis, defective melanosome transfer to precortical matrix keratinocytes, and eventual depletion of hair follicle (HF) pigmentary unit (HFPU) melanocytes and their local progenitors. Graying becomes irreversible only when bulge melanocyte stem cells are also depleted, occurring later in this process. Distinct pigmentary microenvironments are created as the HF cycles: early anagen is the most conducive phase for melanocytic reintegration and activation, and only during anagen can the phenotype of hair graying and repigmentation manifest, whereas the HFPU disassembles during catagen. The temporary reversibility of graying is highlighted by several drugs and hormones that induce repigmentation, indicating potential target pathways. We advise caution in directly applying mouse model concepts, define major open questions, and discuss future human antigraying strategies. Hair graying holds psychosocial importance and serves as an excellent model for studying human pigmentation and aging in an accessible miniorgan. Current evidence suggests that graying results from an interindividually varying mixture of cumulative oxidative and DNA damage, excessive mTORC1 activity, melanocyte senescence, and inadequate production of pigmentation-promoting factors in the hair matrix. Various regulators modulate this process, including genetic factors (DNA repair defects and IRF4 sequence variation, peripheral clock genes, P-cadherin signaling, neuromediators, HGF, KIT ligand secretion, and autophagic flux. This leads to reduced MITF- and tyrosinase-controlled melanogenesis, defective melanosome transfer to precortical matrix keratinocytes, and eventual depletion of hair follicle (HF) pigmentary unit (HFPU) melanocytes and their local progenitors. Graying becomes irreversible only when bulge melanocyte stem cells are also depleted, occurring later in this process. Distinct pigmentary microenvironments are created as the HF cycles: early anagen is the most conducive phase for melanocytic reintegration and activation, and only during anagen can the phenotype of hair graying and repigmentation manifest, whereas the HFPU disassembles during catagen. The temporary reversibility of graying is highlighted by several drugs and hormones that induce repigmentation, indicating potential target pathways. We advise caution in directly applying mouse model concepts, define major open questions, and discuss future human antigraying strategies.