Reimagining Hair Science: A New Approach to Classify Curly Hair Phenotypes via New Quantitative Geometric and Structural Mechanical Parameters

ConspectusHair is a natural polymeric composite primarily composed of tight macrobundles of keratin proteins, which are highly responsive to external stimuli, similarly to the hydrogels and other natural fibrous gel systems like collagen and fibrin.Hair and its appearance play a significant role in human society. As a highly complex biocomposite system, it has been traditionally challenging to characterize and thus develop personal care products. Over the last few decades, a significant societal paradigm shift occurred among those with curly hair, accepting the natural morphological shape of their curls and styling their hair according to its innate, distinct, and unique material properties, which has given rise to the development of new hair classification systems, beyond the traditional and highly limited race-based distinction (Caucasian, Mongolian, and African). L'Oréal developed a hair typing taxonomy based on quantitative geometric parameters among the four key patterns─straight, wavy, curly, and kinky, but it fails to capture the complex diversity of curly and kinky hair. Acclaimed celebrity hair stylist Andre Walker developed a classification system that is the existing gold standard for classifying curly and kinky hair, but it relies upon qualitative classification measures, making the system vague and ambiguous of phenotypic differences. The goal of this research is to use quantitative methods to identify new geometric parameters more representative of curly and kinky hair curl patterns, therefore providing more information on the kinds of personal care products that will resonate best with them and thus maximize desired appearance and health, and to correlate these new parameters with its mechanical properties. This was accomplished by identifying new geometric and mechanical parameters from several types of human hair samples.Geometric properties were measured using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), photogrammetry, and optical microscopy. Mechanical properties were measured under tensile extension using a texture analyzer (TA) and a dynamic mechanical analyzer (DMA), which bears similarity to the common act of brushing or combing. Both instruments measure force as a function of applied displacement, thus allowing the relationship between stress and applied stretch ratio to be measured as a hair strand uncurls and stretches to the point of fracture. From the resulting data, correlations were made between fiber geometry and mechanical performance. This data will be used to draw more conclusions on the contribution that fiber morphology has on hair fiber mechanics and will promote cultural inclusion among researchers and consumers possessing curly and kinky hair.