Current Application of Nanotechnology to Enhance Cutaneous Permeation of Vitamin C and Derivatives

Background: Vitamin C (VitC), or L-ascorbic acid in topical formulations acts as an antioxidant, depigmentant, stimulator of stratum corneum renewal and collagen synthesis. VitC is a thermolabile, water-soluble compound, oxidizes when its solution is exposed to air, metals and high pH. Derivative compounds were created to circumvent the instability, poor penetration capacity in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, new drug delivery systems using nanotechnology began to be studied, providing protection against degradation and penetration through the skin. Objective: The current paper aimed at carrying out a systematic review between 2006 and 2023, seeking innovative topical formulations containing VitC and its derivatives, where the problem of low permeation and instability was circumvented. Methods: The search for articles was performed in the Science Direct, Springer and PubMed databases. The largest amount of information was gathered on innovative formulations for topical use for the delivery of VitC and its derivatives, physicochemical characterization data, in vitro and in vivo studies. Results: The search in the databases resulted in a total of 3032 articles, of which 16 studies were selected for the integrative review, as they proved the possibility of carrying the active ingredient in nanosystems, allowing increased stability, better permeation properties and in vitro cutaneous release, enabling the therapeutic function of the active ingredient through the application of formulations to the skin. In vivo studies also proved the clinical efficacy of the compound in liposomes, ethosomes and niosomes. Conclusion: The most described nanocarriers were nanoparticles and liposomes, and one study involved niosomes and ethosomes. Therefore, even though it is not a newly discovered molecule, VitC continues to be studied in topical formulations ensuring stability, permeation, and effectiveness.